[ This article was written for a B.U.N.S. newsletter for June 2002.]

You can find plenty of information on the Internet about clicker training dogs, birds, cats, horses, and even llamas. But when I went searching for specific suggestions to take advantage of a rabbit's natural inclinations and physiological abilities, I found nothing. Learn by doing, so I hopped right in and made Elvira and Robin my lapine guinea pigs. I'll give a brief summary of clicker training, then talk about targeting and hurdle jumping.

Clicker training is rewards-based behavioral training that uses a signal to indicate "yes, that's it, good!" when the desired behavior is offered. The reward (typically a food treat) follows as soon after the signal as possible, but it's the signal that indicates precisely when the individual is doing the right thing. It's very difficult to reward a rabbit with a treat in the middle of a jump, but a "click" as they go over the hurdle tells them they are doing the right thing and a treat is on the way.

Signals are typically audible for convenience and versatility. To make the signal which I'll call a click, you can use a training clicker, a toy cricket, the snap of a dog leash clip, a word such as "good" or "yes", a click with your tongue, or any other sound that is short and distinctive.

Treats can be anything your rabbit desires and that you can dispense in small increments without health worries. I use Oxbow Bunny Basics/Timothy pellets for treats. I can give one small piece at a time, they are easy to hold in my hand, and the girls love them.

Targeting is usually recommended as a first behavior to teach any animal and it makes teaching many other behaviors easier. So, what to use for a target? Rabbits are somewhat colorblind, and their near vision is poor, especially right in front of them and under their nose. Something smelly? Too vague and uncontrollable. I decided to cover two bases at once and combined sound and motion. My first target was a small plastic cat's toy with a bell inside (jingle ball).

Other target ideas are a squeeze toy, a bell, a baby rattle, a waving handkerchief, fingernails scratching the floor, a stick tapping the ground, or your outstretched hand making "pats" on the floor, as you might invite someone to sit down next to you on the sofa. Do not use your clicker as the target. It's too confusing to distinguish between a click which means "come here" and one which means "yes".

Do some "click and treats", just to give them the idea that a click is good because it means a treat is on the way. Hold the target close to the bunny or pat your hand on the ground right in front of her. She will be very curious about this moving thing or sound, and will likely investigate with her nose. The moment her nose touches the target, click and treat. Gradually move the target further away, and your bunny will make more effort to find the target and get the reward. They love figuring out what to do to make you, the treat dispenser, produce treats.

Rabbits don't instinctively chase their prey like a cat or dog. When stalking the wild dandelion, they rely on it staying put while they consume it. Some individuals will follow a moving target, some will stay and search where they first saw the target, and some will get frustrated if the target moves away from them. Find out what type your bunny is.

Hurdle jumping, show jumping, or bunny hopping is a very popular activity in Scandinavian countries, and gaining ground in the USA. Start with a very low obstacle, far less than you know the rabbit can jump. If necessary, lay a stick directly on the ground. You want to make it very easy for them to succeed so it's fun and not frustrating. After they learn the idea, you can gradually make it higher and higher, until it's a real challenge for them.

The hurdle could be a wooden dowel or stick, the cardboard tube from a roll of paper towels, or a long narrow cardboard box. You can make a low hurdle by propping a stick on a couple of small boxes, or plastic food containers. Don't try for fancy at this first stage of the game. A folding chair with rungs very low to the ground gives you a double hurdle instantly.

Block off access on both sides of the hurdle, so that's it's easier to go over than around. Put one end against a wall and sit at the other end. Or use cardboard boxes to block both sides. Use the target on one side of the hurdle, click and treat. Now she's in position to go over. Move the target to the far side. At the moment she jumps, and before she lands, click. This lets her know that the jump is the action you want, not simply getting to the target.

When she's doing it right nearly every time, and this may take a couple of sessions, you can place the hurdle where it's not blocked on the ends. If she goes around the end, no click. It won't take long to figure out that going over is the only right way.

I have Robin go through double hurdles, get a treat, then back through in the opposite direction for another treat. She likes it so much, I no longer use the target, or give a cue after the first time each session. If you are training for show jumping, you don't want your potential little champion to turn around and go back the wrong way, or to start too soon. Designate a beginning point, and only reward for jumping on cue, and in the right direction.

If you put a target on the end of a stick, you can use it to lead your competitor through a complex course while you run along beside. Current competition rules require a harness and leash. My girls won't have anything to do with that nasty harness. If the harness is a problem, skip it, and go for a little fun jumping in the house and work on harness toleration later. Never lose sight of the goal for trick training: both of you having fun.

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